All rights reserved on text and photos.

After reading Raffamusa’s blog entry for the arrow point granny square, I had a picture in my mind for a blanket.

This is a rough guide USING UK TERMS to making it.

Work a standard granny square for 14 rows. Over one side of the square, work a corner by making a decrease at each end of 13 rows until one shell of 3 sts remains. Turn, 3 ch, sl st to the ch sp at the other side to make a ch sp to work corner stitches into. I’ve placed this at the top left corner.

Decrease at the beginning of the row by working one turning st/turning ch only in the ch sp. I make a turning stitch by picking up a loop in the ch sp, yo, draw thru the 2 loops, 1 ch.plac
Decrease at the end of each row by working one stitch only into the last ch sp and turning for the next row.

Work over the other three sides, decreasing at the beginning and end for 28 rows.

To...

In allowing access to this pattern, I grant the right to make this blanket for your personal use. It would be a joy if it was acknowledged as a Justdunny design. However I reserve all rights to text and images. Please do not copy, duplicate or distribute this pattern or contents.

Photos available here - https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Justdunny/moon–stars-afghan

(I haven’t even looked at this for over ten years so hoping it all makes sense!)

STAR SQUARE - points are separate to background) -approx 13 cm - 5”.
WITH CREAM - work 15 dc into ch ring.
JOIN WHITE - sts will be worked around the body of each centre st, leaving the tops of sts at back for joining the background blue.

1. 1 ch, sl st around body of next tr. 2 ch, (1 tr worked around next dc, 3 ch, 1 tr around same st), 1 dc around next. Rep to end.
2. Sl st into each st to ch ring at point, (1 ch, 1 sc, 1 dc, 1 tr into ring...

Apologies for taking so long to do this, but the condition I have that affects my feet won’t let me sit at the computer for long.

Original Mandala Geometric blanket © Justdunny

In allowing access to this pattern, I grant the right to make this blanket for your personal use. It would be a joy if it was acknowledged as a Justdunny design. However I reserve all rights to text and images. Please do not copy, duplicate or distribute this pattern or contents.

UK TERMS USED THROUGHOUT (tr = US dc, dc = US sc)
The pictured blanket was made using 8 ply (DK) acrylic yarn and a 4.00 mm hook with my no-hole corner. Gauge is not so important for a blanket. The size may vary, though. This blanket is about 6’ (180 cm) long by about 5‘ (150 cm) wide. The central part is a 5 x 5 square of squares and blocks (“block” refers to smaller squares joined to make the same size as the large squares)...

1. Work 1 dc into 7th ch of a round 5 loop,

2ch, 1 dc into 4th ch of the round 6 loop,

5 ch. Repeat to end.

Hope that helps!

Row 7 makes a solid circle around the ch loops made in rows 5 & 6 by joining to a ch loop from row 5 into the 7th ch, then 2 ch to separate, then join to the ch loop from row 6 that lies across that ch loop into the 4th ch of that loop.
The row 6 loops will sit above the row 5 loops. By joining into a different place in the two different colour ch loops, they make a point at a different place.

I hope this picture makes more sense of it.

The red circle on the left shows working a dc into the 7th ch of a row 5 ch loop. Then work 2 ch to separate them & create the circle. The pink circle shows working a dc into the 4th ch of a row 6 ch loop, followed by 5 ch. You’ll see there’s a small space between where the two points are, then a larger space to where the next two points are.

This variation makes a closer, denser and more textured “bobbly” finish than the standard pattern by –
• Using 2 turning ch for tr (US dc) not 3.
• For middle blocks, working a tr into the same st as turning ch worked from, a tr into the turning ch rather than over it, then a st into the sl st. This makes the sts bunch more for more texture.
• Closing the easily opened gap by not working over the turning ch and only using 2 ch.

I haven’t included decreasing once you’ve reached desired size, just the dense version of working the stitches.

NOTE – UK terms used so tr = US dc.

Instructions
Beginning block - Ch 6, work a tr (US dc) into the 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of next 2 ch.

First block of row of 2 blocks - Ch 5, tr into the 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next ch, 1 tr into top of same tr as ch worked from. Sl st to the top of turning ch of prev block. Don’t turn.
Note that the...

As the time I spend developing patterns takes me away from crocheting for those most in need in Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia, please consider making a donation to PEACE Inc. as thanks for the use of this pattern -

http://www.thepeacefoundation.com.au/peace-donations.html

Many thanks for your help! If you see any errors or need help, please message me on Ravelry any time.

In allowing access to this pattern, I grant the right to make this blanket for your personal use. It would be a joy if it was acknowledged as a Justdunny design. I reserve all rights to text and images. Please do not copy, duplicate or distribute this pattern or contents.

Layout of squares & blocks

(Dots show where white corner should be placed)

Chart - solid granny square

Chart - solid mitred

Chart - worked on 3 sides

Notes:
• Instructions use UK terms - tr = US dc, dc = US sc.
• The blanket...

Over time, the edge of a crochet blanket often gets fluted, stretched, even thin with use.

To get around that, I usually add one or more rows to stabilise the edge. You’ve probably noticed that the smaller the stitch, the less “give” or stretch it has. Here are a few of the methods I’ve used.

Several rows of dc (US sc) - a band that is much less stretchy and much more stable.

Row of dc (US sc) worked into both back loops -

Row of dc (US sc) worked into both back loops, 1 ch, sk1 -

Row of sl st worked into both back loops -

Row of sl st worked around body of sts -

There are other variations I’ve used, but they’re mostly variations of these. Working into both back loops makes the edge really stable and tends to keep the edge from curling forwards.

Hope that’s helpful!
Toni

IMPORTANT - making my designs square

Many have found a few of my designs impossible to make square. In reworking the Mandala Geometric pattern, I’ve finally worked it out!

Many of my designs won’t work with 3 turning ch for a UK tr (US dc). Only 2 turning ch will make them square.

When you make a tr (US dc), you make one dc (US sc) on top of another - draw through 2, draw through 2. A dc (US sc) is one chain high.

The only time I use 3 (tight) turning ch for a tr (US dc) is when using foundation ch. You end up with 2 ch to represent the tr and one to represent the top of the st. If you use 2 ch, you are in effect working into the body of the st. You’ll notice the top of a tr looks like a ch, so the third ch creates that.

In turning (over or around as in my no-hole corners), you only need to reproduce the equivalent of a dc on top of a dc = 2 ch. I’ve seen a few tutorials on how to...