Just Dunny (Toni)

Crochet outside of the lines with Toni (Justdunny)

Read this first


  1. Work 1 dc into 7th ch of a round 5 loop,

!!row 7 magic carpet 1.jpg

2ch, 1 dc into 4th ch of the round 6 loop,

!!row 7 magic carpet 2.jpg

5 ch. Repeat to end.

!!row 7 magic carpet 3.jpg

Hope that helps!

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Row 7 makes a solid circle around the ch loops made in rows 5 & 6 by joining to a ch loop from row 5 into the 7th ch, then 2 ch to separate, then join to the ch loop from row 6 that lies across that ch loop into the 4th ch of that loop.
The row 6 loops will sit above the row 5 loops. By joining into a different place in the two different colour ch loops, they make a point at a different place.

I hope this picture makes more sense of it.

!!row 7 magic carpet.jpg

The red circle on the left shows working a dc into the 7th ch of a row 5 ch loop. Then work 2 ch to separate them & create the circle. The pink circle shows working a dc into the 4th ch of a row 6 ch loop, followed by 5 ch. You’ll see there’s a small space between where the two points are, then a larger space to where the next two points are.

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C2C Variation - closer fabric

This variation makes a closer, denser and more textured “bobbly” finish than the standard pattern by –
• Using 2 turning ch for tr (US dc) not 3.
• For middle blocks, working a tr into the same st as turning ch worked from, a tr into the turning ch rather than over it, then a st into the sl st. This makes the sts bunch more for more texture.
• Closing the easily opened gap by not working over the turning ch and only using 2 ch.

I haven’t included decreasing once you’ve reached desired size, just the dense version of working the stitches.

C2C DENSE SQ&STD sml.jpg

NOTE – UK terms used so tr = US dc.

Beginning block - Ch 6, work a tr (US dc) into the 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of next 2 ch.

First block of row of 2 blocks - Ch 5, tr into the 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next ch, 1 tr into top of same tr as ch worked from. Sl st to the top of turning ch of prev block. Don’t turn.
Note that the...

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Original Mandala Geometric pattern reworked (UK)

As the time I spend developing patterns takes me away from crocheting for those most in need in Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia, please consider making a donation to PEACE Inc. as thanks for the use of this pattern -


Many thanks for your help! If you see any errors or need help, please message me on Ravelry any time.

!!header original mandala geom.jpg

!!original mandala geometric blanket signed.jpg

In allowing access to this pattern, I grant the right to make this blanket for your personal use. It would be a joy if it was acknowledged as a Justdunny design. I reserve all rights to text and images. Please do not copy, duplicate or distribute this pattern or contents.

Layout of squares & blocks

Mandala geom progess.jpg


(Dots show where white corner should be placed)


Chart - solid granny square


Chart - solid mitred


Chart - worked on 3 sides

• Instructions use UK terms - tr = US dc, dc = US sc.
• The blanket...

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Stable edge to stop stretch

Over time, the edge of a crochet blanket often gets fluted, stretched, even thin with use.

To get around that, I usually add one or more rows to stabilise the edge. You’ve probably noticed that the smaller the stitch, the less “give” or stretch it has. Here are a few of the methods I’ve used.

Several rows of dc (US sc) - a band that is much less stretchy and much more stable.

Row of dc (US sc) worked into both back loops -

Row of dc (US sc) worked into both back loops, 1 ch, sk1 -

Row of sl st worked into both back loops -

Row of sl st worked around body of sts -

There are other variations I’ve used, but they’re mostly variations of these. Working into both back loops makes the edge really stable and tends to keep the edge from curling forwards.

Hope that’s helpful!

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A note on turning ch in my patterns

IMPORTANT - making my designs square

Many have found a few of my designs impossible to make square. In reworking the Mandala Geometric pattern, I’ve finally worked it out!

Many of my designs won’t work with 3 turning ch for a UK tr (US dc). Only 2 turning ch will make them square.


When you make a tr (US dc), you make one dc (US sc) on top of another - draw through 2, draw through 2. A dc (US sc) is one chain high.

The only time I use 3 (tight) turning ch for a tr (US dc) is when using foundation ch. You end up with 2 ch to represent the tr and one to represent the top of the st. If you use 2 ch, you are in effect working into the body of the st. You’ll notice the top of a tr looks like a ch, so the third ch creates that.

In turning (over or around as in my no-hole corners), you only need to reproduce the equivalent of a dc on top of a dc = 2 ch. I’ve seen a few tutorials on how to...

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Stripes and more

The strips of stripes have caught my mind. I wondered what would happen if you combined them with squares. This is what I came up with.

STRIPES SQS DIAMONDfinal 110317signed.jpg

There were a few test squares generated in making this. They’ll end up in another piece! LOL

It’s the graduated colours that make this work.

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Storm at Sea patchwork in crochet

In allowing access to this pattern, I grant the right to make this blanket for your own use or as a gift. It would be a joy if I was acknowledged as the designer. I reserve all rights to the images.

This design uses three different blocks to create the large block -
Diamond in a square (4), Diamond in a rectangle (4) and Square/Diamond/Square (1).


I have used English terms throughout. There is little if nothing original in what’s been done here. You’ve probably used most of the techniques used.

storm at sea quilt top 271113.jpg

This design can easily be made in any size because it is only dictated by the size of the diamond in the square – simply make that to the size you like and the rest will work from there. The Diamond in a rectangle is the size of two Diamond in a squares side by side. The Square/Diamond/Square will match the long side of the Diamond in a rectangle.  
Work the Diamond in a Square...

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Strips of Stripes - eye-wiggle

After sorting some yarn, I found a lot of scraps & started to think of a simple way to use them up. As most of my work is donated to charity, I prefer maximum warmth, so granny squares were out LOL

ALTERNATING STRIPS prog4 050117signed.jpg

This is what I came up with. It’s quick to work up and once assembled, really does almost confuse your eyes.

ALTERNATING STRIPS prog4 VERT 050117signed.jpg

It’s a simple idea, but the effect is eye-catching! Not sure which way around I prefer!

The finished product - about 44" x 48"

ALTERNATING STRIPS final 070117signed.jpg

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How many loops on the hook? UK & US terms

Having grown up with only UK terms, this is a question I hadn’t heard before finding crochet on the internet - mostly in US terms.

It might help those who find it hard to swap between the two sets of terms to know US terms relate to HOW MANY TIMES YOU DRAW THROUGH LOOPS. UK terms relate to HOW MANY LOOPS ARE ON THE HOOK!

The terms are almost the same, except in US terms, sc (single crochet) takes the place of dc (double crochet) in UK terms. Then the terms all move up one step - US dc becomes tr (treble or triple) UK, etc.

So in US terms, sc means draw through once, dc means draw through twice.

In UK terms dc means there are two loops on the hook before drawing through, tr means three loops on the hook before drawing through.

In both terms, all basic stitches relate to drawing through two loops until there is only one left.

So don’t be afraid if you see a different set of terms...

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