1. Work 1 dc into 7th ch of a round 5 loop,

2ch, 1 dc into 4th ch of the round 6 loop,

5 ch. Repeat to end.

Hope that helps!

Row 7 makes a solid circle around the ch loops made in rows 5 & 6 by joining to a ch loop from row 5 into the 7th ch, then 2 ch to separate, then join to the ch loop from row 6 that lies across that ch loop into the 4th ch of that loop.
The row 6 loops will sit above the row 5 loops. By joining into a different place in the two different colour ch loops, they make a point at a different place.

I hope this picture makes more sense of it.

The red circle on the left shows working a dc into the 7th ch of a row 5 ch loop. Then work 2 ch to separate them & create the circle. The pink circle shows working a dc into the 4th ch of a row 6 ch loop, followed by 5 ch. You’ll see there’s a small space between where the two points are, then a larger space to where the next two points are.

This variation makes a closer, denser and more textured “bobbly” finish than the standard pattern by –
• Using 2 turning ch for tr (US dc) not 3.
• For middle blocks, working a tr into the same st as turning ch worked from, a tr into the turning ch rather than over it, then a st into the sl st. This makes the sts bunch more for more texture.
• Closing the easily opened gap by not working over the turning ch and only using 2 ch.

I haven’t included decreasing once you’ve reached desired size, just the dense version of working the stitches.

NOTE – UK terms used so tr = US dc.

Instructions
Beginning block - Ch 6, work a tr (US dc) into the 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of next 2 ch.

First block of row of 2 blocks - Ch 5, tr into the 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next ch, 1 tr into top of same tr as ch worked from. Sl st to the top of turning ch of prev block. Don’t turn.
Note that the...

As the time I spend developing patterns takes me away from crocheting for those most in need in Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia, please consider making a donation to PEACE Inc. as thanks for the use of this pattern -

http://www.thepeacefoundation.com.au/peace-donations.html

Many thanks for your help! If you see any errors or need help, please message me on Ravelry any time.

In allowing access to this pattern, I grant the right to make this blanket for your personal use. It would be a joy if it was acknowledged as a Justdunny design. I reserve all rights to text and images. Please do not copy, duplicate or distribute this pattern or contents.

Layout of squares & blocks

(Dots show where white corner should be placed)

Chart - solid granny square

Chart - solid mitred

Chart - worked on 3 sides

Notes:
• Instructions use UK terms - tr = US dc, dc = US sc.
• The blanket...

Over time, the edge of a crochet blanket often gets fluted, stretched, even thin with use.

To get around that, I usually add one or more rows to stabilise the edge. You’ve probably noticed that the smaller the stitch, the less “give” or stretch it has. Here are a few of the methods I’ve used.

Several rows of dc (US sc) - a band that is much less stretchy and much more stable.

Row of dc (US sc) worked into both back loops -

Row of dc (US sc) worked into both back loops, 1 ch, sk1 -

Row of sl st worked into both back loops -

Row of sl st worked around body of sts -

There are other variations I’ve used, but they’re mostly variations of these. Working into both back loops makes the edge really stable and tends to keep the edge from curling forwards.

Hope that’s helpful!
Toni

IMPORTANT - making my designs square

Many have found a few of my designs impossible to make square. In reworking the Mandala Geometric pattern, I’ve finally worked it out!

Many of my designs won’t work with 3 turning ch for a UK tr (US dc). Only 2 turning ch will make them square.

When you make a tr (US dc), you make one dc (US sc) on top of another - draw through 2, draw through 2. A dc (US sc) is one chain high.

The only time I use 3 (tight) turning ch for a tr (US dc) is when using foundation ch. You end up with 2 ch to represent the tr and one to represent the top of the st. If you use 2 ch, you are in effect working into the body of the st. You’ll notice the top of a tr looks like a ch, so the third ch creates that.

In turning (over or around as in my no-hole corners), you only need to reproduce the equivalent of a dc on top of a dc = 2 ch. I’ve seen a few tutorials on how to...

The strips of stripes have caught my mind. I wondered what would happen if you combined them with squares. This is what I came up with.

There were a few test squares generated in making this. They’ll end up in another piece! LOL

It’s the graduated colours that make this work.

In allowing access to this pattern, I grant the right to make this blanket for your own use or as a gift. It would be a joy if I was acknowledged as the designer. I reserve all rights to the images.

This design uses three different blocks to create the large block -
Diamond in a square (4), Diamond in a rectangle (4) and Square/Diamond/Square (1).

I have used English terms throughout. There is little if nothing original in what’s been done here. You’ve probably used most of the techniques used.

This design can easily be made in any size because it is only dictated by the size of the diamond in the square – simply make that to the size you like and the rest will work from there. The Diamond in a rectangle is the size of two Diamond in a squares side by side. The Square/Diamond/Square will match the long side of the Diamond in a rectangle.  
INSTRUCTIONS
Work the Diamond in a Square...

After sorting some yarn, I found a lot of scraps & started to think of a simple way to use them up. As most of my work is donated to charity, I prefer maximum warmth, so granny squares were out LOL

This is what I came up with. It’s quick to work up and once assembled, really does almost confuse your eyes.

It’s a simple idea, but the effect is eye-catching! Not sure which way around I prefer!

The finished product - about 44" x 48"